Rezeki Musim Hujan

Selamat hari Jumaat buat semua..

Musim hujan kini kembali lagi..kalau dulu masa kecil-kecil saya selalu pergi menangkap ikan dekat rumah mak saudara sebab rumah dia tepi paya pada musim hujan,sekarang saya pulak yang melayan tengok kanak-kanak menangkap ikan.teringat masa kecil-kecil dahulu.

Kalau dulu sebut je longkang,paya,sungai,sawah mana yang saya tak masuk..sume saya redah nak tangkap ikan. Ikan dapat seekor dua je..tapi baju kotor habis.hehe..minat nie sejak kecil lagi,sampai amik degree pun bidang akuakultur..haha.minat punya pasal la kononnya.

Ha dah tua sekarang minat makin bercambah ke semua jenis bidang pertanian...masa mula-mula grad dulu minat kambing lepas baca blog esis (www.kambing-boer.blogspot.com),sekarang minat yang lagi kompleks plak..heheh..oklah..lari tajuk pulak..nie la saya katakan rezeki musim hujan..ikan haruan..sebenarnya banyak lagi ikan yang boleh kita tangkap musim hujan ni..ikan puyu,ikan sepat,belut dan macam-macam lagi la..kalau nasib malang jumpe ular air..hahah



heheh..ni gambar dari pancing.net jer..aku nie cakap je minat..tapi bab mancing nie failed..haha



ni saje jer aku nak naikkan balik semangat hujan korang..bagi lap balik batang pancing yang dah berhabuk tuh..pergi jahit balik jala yang dah koyak tuh..hehe

Koi Fish : A legendary Fish From Japan

Erm...Today I will write about Koi Fish.Koi fish maybe only a common ornamental fish to Malaysian but i bring significant effects to Japanese culture.Why?It was believe to bring and symbolize luck and wealthiness.Its also because it was beautiful as well.Thounsand year a ago empire of Japan have been breeding and culturing Koi fish in pond in their empire castle.After that, people in japan start to breed and culturing this fish at the back of their houses.Their just culturing this fishes like other animal,given they the waste food as feed and eat them like normal livestock.

Nowdays Koi fish become more expensive because of their colour and unique shape on their bodies. Prices are determine due to their strain,purestrain or mix. Some of this fishes have birth certificate to determine they are from winning strain in Koi fishes competition.Oh one more thing,this fish scientific name is Cyprinus carpio



Koi Fish culture in Malaysia

Koi Fish culture in Malaysia have been started many years ago,significantly,Malaysian breeders in Pulau Pinang now can produce quality of Koi fish same as in Japan. But the main problem is the japanese sentiment toward Malaysia Koi Fishes. They still thought that Malaysia Koi Fish quality is still not same as in Japan.Therefore,the prices is still low when it was exported to japan.

But nowdays breeders and ornamental fish exporter find new way to export the fish.They export to Hong Kong because they buy Malaysia Koi fish ( A Grade) at hishesr price and sometime as same as Price of Koi in Japan. It was significant acknowledgement by ornamental fish fan toward Malaysia Ornamental Industries.

Breeding Malaysian Golden Arowana, Scleropages formosus in Concrete Tanks

By Mohamad Zaini Suleiman
Freshwater Fisheries Research Centre, Department of Fisheries, Batu, Berendam 75350, Melaka, Malaysia

Aquarticles



Golden Arowana

The Golden Arowana is the most popular and expensive ornamental fish native to Malaysia. The best quality is the crossed-back full scale Arowana is the Malaysian Golden Arowana. This variety only occurs in Bukit Merah Lake in the state of Perak, Malaysia. In its natural habitat breeding season normally occurs from August to October every year. During the season village folk from around the lake will try to collect the valuable fry at night.

There are two varieties of arowana that commonly inhabit Malaysian water bodies; a golden variety and a green variety. The green variety is more common and less expensive compared to the golden variety, which sells at a premium. The crossed-back Golden Arowana commonly inhabits the Kerian River and its tributaries in Perak. In its natural habitat the fish prefer slightly acidic clean water and unpolluted natural surroundings, especially shallow and fast flowing rivers with overhanging vegetation on the river bank.

Due the high price of the golden variety the Freshwater Fisheries Research Station (FFRC) started with a few individuals of the wild catch for brood stock. The wild fish were acquired from traditional fish collectors at Bukit Merah Lake in 1990. In 1996 FFRC was fortunate to successfully breed the Malaysian Golden Arowana in concrete tanks on the first attempt.

Broodstock maintenance

Eight pieces of Malaysian Golden Dragon were reared in a bare-based concrete tank measuring 5 x 5 meters with a water depth about 0.5 meters fenced with plastic netting about 0.75 meters high to prevent the fish from jumping out. A spawning room was built in one corner of the concrete tank and some pieces of bogwood were added to help create a natural living environment for the fish. Other decorations such as pebbles and stones were avoided because they may injure the fish and be swallowed accidentally during feeding. The rearing tank was partially shaded, away from direct sunlight and built in a quiet area. The broodstock were maintained in the rearing tank until the fish reached maturity.

Water quality management

Although the arowana is a hardy fish the quality of water should correspond to the pH of water in its natural habitat when reared in concrete tanks. The pH of water in the rearing tank should be maintained between 6.8 - 7.5 and 27 - 29°C. Water was partially changed at about 30 - 35% of total volume and topped up with dechlorinated tap water. The water depth was maintained at about 0.5 - 0.75 meters.

Feeding

Broodstock were fed a variety of food. A balanced diet is very important in helping fish to mature and spawn. The daily diet should be diverse and contain a high protein content. The fish were fed daily with meat-based live food such as wild guppy, freshwater prawn (Macrobrachium lanchestrii), low grade goldfish and chopped fish meat. Pellet feed containing 32% crude protein was also given as supplementary food. Total amount of food provided was approximately 2% of total body weight per day.

Maturity

The fish attain first maturity from around the 4th year onwards at which point they measure between 45-60cm in total length. The fish spawn throughout the year with the peak season occurring between July and December. In the wild the male incubates the fertilised eggs in its mouth cavity until the fry are free swimming after about 2 months.

Female arowana have been reported to have a single ovary which contains around 20 - 30 large ova approximately 1.9cm in diameter. Our observations made by dissecting dead mature arowana reared in earthen ponds and obtained from private hatchery confirm the single ovary. However, we found around 50 - 60 ova at different stages of maturity. The mature male arowana also possess single thread-like testis.

Sex differentiation

There are no obvious sexual differences in juvenile fish. These become apparent after maturity is reached at about 3-4 years of age.

Determination of sex is based on the body shape and the size of the mouth cavity. Male fish have a slimmer and shallower body depth, a bigger mouth and more intense colour then the females. The larger mouth and deeper lower jaw in males are for egg incubating purposes. The size of the males' head is relatively bigger. Male fish normally seem more aggressive and lead in competing for food.

Spawning behaviour

The arowana shows very unique behaviour during courtship. Courtship takes place from several weeks to months before the pair starts to mate. The courtship sequences usually are observed at night when the fish tend to swim closer to the water surface. The male chases the female around the perimeter of the tank and sometimes the pair circle each other nose-to-tail. About one to two weeks before spawning takes place, the fish swim side by side with their bodies touching. Eventually the female releases a cluster of orange-red eggs.

The male fertilises the eggs and then scoops them into its mouth where it incubates them until the fry can swim and survive independently. The eggs are about 8 -10 mm in diameter and rich with yolk and hatch about one week after fertilisation. After hatching, the young larvae continue to live in the male's mouth for a further 7 - 8 weeks until the yolk sac is totally absorbed. The fry leave the mouth and become independent when they reach about 4550mm.

Identifying a brooding male

After mating a brooding male can be identified by a distended operculum and its swimming behaviour. They don't seem to feed and look more placid than at other times. A brooding male can also be recognised by a remarkable brood pouch located at the underside of its mouth.


Fry harvest

The incubation period (time from fertilisation until the fry are released) is normally about 8 weeks. To shorten the period the fertilised eggs can be hand removed from the male's mouth on the 30th day after spawning. The brooding male should be carefully caught with a fine net and covered with a wet cotton towel to avoid injury and struggling.

The lower jaw of the fish is pulled backward slowly and the body is shaken slightly to release the half developed larvae from the male's mouth. The larvae are collected in a plastic basin and incubated in an aquarium. The number of the fertilised eggs collected in a single brood is usually about 20 - 35 larvae.




Larvae removed from the male's mouth

Hatching technique

Once removed from the male's mouth, the half-developed larvae are incubated in glass aquarium tanks, measuring 90 x 45 x 45 cm. Water temperature is kept around 27 - 29°C using a thermostat heater and dissolved oxygen is maintained at about 5 ppm (mg/l) through continuous gentle aeration of the water. We generally add about 2 ppm of Acriflavine solution to the water to prevent infection of any injuries suffered by the larvae during handling. Using this in vitro hatching technique, the survival rate to free swimming stage is generally about 90 - 100%.

During the first few weeks when the larvae still have a large yolk sac, they tend to remain at the bottom of the tank most of the time. The fry start to swim upward periodically when the yolk sac becomes smaller. On the 8th week the yolk sac is nearly fully absorbed and the fry start to swim horizontally. At this stage the first live food should be given to the fry. The yolk sac is fully absorbed and the fry become free- swimming at about 8.5cm in length.

Maintenance of fry

During the incubation period the fry do not need to be fed. The fry will swim freely on the 7th week. Supplementary external live feed such as young guppys or bloodworm can be given at the early free-swimming stage to prevent the fry from attacking each other. The fry are very vigorous feeders and should be provided with ample supply of feed. We recommend a partial water change of about 30% of total tank volume every 2- 3 days to maintain water quality.

Bigger fry of about 10 -12cm in length can be fed with freshwater prawn or chopped fish meat to accelerate their growth rate. At 4 months in age we rear fingerlings individually in 75 x 45 x 45cm aquariums to avoid physical defects from fighting with siblings. To enhance the colour and promote the formation of chromatophores we suggest to illuminate with artificial lighting at least 10 -12 hours a day. After 6 -7 months of free-swimming the fry measure about 20 -25cm in length and are suitable for market.

Common problems during maintenance

We found few problems in maintenance of brood stock. All our fish were healthy, but common diseases such as fin rot, cloudy eye and infection of anchor worm (Lernaea) can occur especially after transferring the fish during overall cleaning of tank.

We treat fish suffering from finrot with a saline bath (1% salt) or commercial medication. Some fish suffer cloudy eyes because of poor handling or from being kept for prolonged time in poor quality contaminated water. To overcome this problem partial water changes of about one third of tank volume every two or three days should be carried out until the fish fully recover. Common salt was added at every water change (1%) until the condition improved. Infection with anchor worm parasite Lernaea causes the fish to rub its body against the side of tank and lose appetite. The parasites can be removed manually and the infected fish were also treated with Diptrex® at 0.5 ppm (mg/l).

Conclusion

Breeding of arowana in earthen ponds is commonly practised by commercial ornamental fish farms in Malaysia. To start the business the breeding operation needs a large amount of money for the cost of capital such as buying the broodstock and building new infrastructures.

The FFRC Batu Berendam has developed a breeding technique for Arowana in enclosed concrete tanks. To start the breeding operation requires an estimated cost of around RM 150,000100,000. This is affordable by breeders in the Malaysian community and can be operated as concurrent activity for side income. The breakthrough achieved by FFRC shows that the technique is also suitable for small scale and backyard industry.

The technique was introduced to interested farmers in Malaysia through a transfer technology programme and the responses from farmers are very promising with first harvests after two years operation. This shows that the arowana seed production in concrete tank technique is workable and practical.



References

Mohamrnad Mohsin, A.K. and Mohd Azmi Arnbak 1983.

Freshwater fishes of Peninsular Malaysia. Universiti Pertanian Malaysia. Mohamad-Zaini,S., Saadon,K., Mansor, A & Ornar A.B (2000).

Breeding of Arowana, Scleropages formosus, (Müller and Schlegel) In Concrete Tank. FRI Bullettin Vol.5 No: 2. December, 2000.

Scott, D.C.B and Fuller, J.D (1976. The reproductive biology of Scleropages formosus (Müller and Schlegel) (Osteoglossomorpha, Osteoglossidae) in Malaya and the morphology ofits pituitary gland.

J. Fish BioI. 8,pp 45-53. July-September 2003 (Vol. VIII No. 3)

THE BREEDING OF DISCUS

by Ricky Grange
First published in the Vancouver Aquatic Hobbyist Club Newsletter.
Aquarticles


When I first started keeping discus, breeding them was a mystery to me. Those who were successful in doing so must have been privy to some "secret knowledge". Over the past four years of playing with these "magical" fish the secrets have unravelled themselves for me. Breeding discus has actually proven not to be the ultimate challenge but actually a rather simple undertaking... after all, what can be easier than a fish that not only guards its young but also feeds them! My purpose in writing this article is to share with you the techniques that I use. By no means do I claim that this is the best or only way of doing things - it’s just what works for me with the conditions I have to work with.


Discus with fry

There are two ways to go about obtaining a breeding pair of discus. The most common is to buy a group of young discus and grow them up together. For a good chance of getting a pair, at least six discus must be purchased, hopefully from a few different sources so as to get some genetic diversity in the breeding program. These fish are then housed together until pairs can be determined. When two discus pair off they will defend a territory in the aquarium against all of their other tank mates. When this behaviour is observed it is time for the breeder to move the "newlyweds" to an aquarium of their own. The second way to obtain a breeding pair is to go out and buy one. This is a more expensive route, since proven pairs sell for several hundred dollars, but it will yield the fastest results.
Regardless of how you get your pair, you will need an aquarium set up for them with the objective of breeding in mind. A twenty or twenty-seven gallon tall tank is ideal for these "tall" fish. The bottom is left bare, so that removing any left over food and other debris is easy. The only decor required by the pair is a spawning surface. Discus lay their eggs in the same manner as angels, and so a vertical surface should be provided for them to deposit their eggs on. I use an inverted ceramic flower pot, but the discus aren’t picky and will use whatever surface is available. A potted plant or two can be added to the breeding tank if so desired, and will provide some shelter for the pair, but this is not essential. As far as filtration goes, a sponge filter should be used to handle the biological load, and an outside power filter to pick up any debris that may be in the water. I also like to add a mesh bag of peat moss in the power filter so as to better replicate the natural water conditions that discus come from.
This brings us to the first and most important secret you will need to know if you are going to have any success breeding discus. This is the secret of water quality. Discus come from the warm, soft, acidic waters of the Amazon River. It’s no surprise then that discus thrive when these conditions are replicated in the home aquarium. For both general maintenance and breeding of discus the pH should be kept at 6.5, and the temperature around 86 F. Any alterations that need to be made to the water chemistry should always be done prior to the water being added to the tank. For general maintenance water changes should be performed weekly. However in the breeding tank, a small water change should be done every day, or every second day. Frequent water changes increase appetite and promote mating activity in discus. It’s no coincidence that discus will often spawn after a water change.
The second secret is related to the first, and this is the secret of food. If good water quality is maintained the discus will have large appetites and should greedily accept any food offered to them. My discus get fed only frozen bloodworms. The reason for this is that they are clean and convenient to use. Other foods that can be used include beef heart, Tetra Color Bits, frozen or live brine shrimp, and live white worms. If feeding beef heart, one must be careful that none is left over because it will foul the water very quickly. Live tubifex or black worms should never be fed to discus at any time, as I can guarantee that they will introduce parasites to the tank.
Once these two secrets are mastered, breeding discus is a cinch. The breeding pair will lay eggs as often as every week, as many as fifteen times. They will usually go through two of these spawning cycles in a year. The eggs take 48 hours to hatch , and are free-swimming another 72 hours later. Immediately upon becoming free-swimming the fry will move to their parents’ sides, and start feeding off the mucous secretion that is produced by the parents during this time. The fry will feed off their parents’ sides for as long as you leave them together, but they should be offered newly hatched brine shrimp after being free-swimming for five days.
I recommend that the fry be removed between two and three weeks after reaching the free-swimming stage, as leaving them with the parents any longer can be hazardous for the parents’ health. The youngsters will actually reach a point where they can start ripping off scales and bits of flesh from the parents. Once the fry are removed the pair will spawn again in short order. The fry, now in a tank of their own, should be fed six or more times a day. The best foods to give the fry are newly hatched brine shrimp and chopped bloodworms. It’s amazing how fast baby discus grow, for the first few weeks there is noticeable daily growth. In the fry tank it is important to do a partial water change every night after the last feeding.

From now on it’s just a matter of remembering the two secrets of success for keeping and breeding discus; water and food!

mari membiak ikan laga(Betta splendens)

ermm..menurut kajian yang dilakukan, Malaysia merupakan pengeluar terbesar ikan hiasan dunia tapi singapura merupakan pengeksport terbesar...nape plak jadi gitu ekk?korang paham2 la..lembu punya susu sapi dapat nama...hhehe.Ikan-ikan hiasan banyak dihasilkan di Malaysia tetapi dieksport di singapura menggunakan nama singapura.konon-konon dieorang yang wat la..padahal kita...Malaysia merupakan antara pengeluar yang menghasilkan ikan Discus,Ikan Emas,Koi,dan Kelisa yang terbaik di dunia...bangga tak?hihih..errmm ok arini aku akan ajar korang camner nak wat breeding atau pembiakan ikan laga atau ikan spilar yang femes pada masa kita kecik2 dulu ni..sekarang pun ikan ni mempunyai peminat mereka yang tersendiri..

pendahuluan

Ikan laga ni sebenarnya mempunyai beberapa varieti atau jenis2 yang berbeza..ia dapat dikenal pasti melalui bentuk ekor nya.ada spesis crown tail,half moon,moon atau jenis yang biasa.yang femes atau harga yang mencecah rm 20 hingga ratus2 sekor biasanya half moon..cantik kalo korang tengok..meleleh air liur.caya arr aku cakap..gambar yang aku tunjuk tu crown tail.ikan laga nie mempunyai bermacam2 warna dan kualitinya juga dinilai dari warna,sama ada sekata ke,seragam ke..gitu arr..aku pun xberape expert..

jantina

cara nak kenal ikan jantan senang ajer..biasernya ikan jantan ekor die panjang.tapi xsemestinya sebab sekarang nie para penternak dah hasilkan betina yang ekor panjang gak.Jadi masalah arr sket..tapi yg betina ni korang akan dapat kenal pasti melalui abdomen dan juga biji putih di bahagian anusnya..bwh ikan tuh arr..

kematangan

untuk pembiakan korang memerlukan induk yang matang jadi pilihla dengan betul..

jantan
induk jantan yang matang dan bersedia untuk membiak akan membuat buih di permukaan..tuh maknenya dia ngan 'hot' arr tuh.

betina
Bagi yang betina plak,macam biasa arr perut atau abdomen dia akan buncit,dan terdapat biji putih di bahagian anusnya...

Kaedah pembiakan

Bagi kaedah pembiakan,korang kene sediakan yang selesa 1 kaki x 1 kaki x 1 kaki.tapi lagi kecik pun takder masalah..aku cume cakap hak asasi ikan tuh arr.cube korang bayangkan korang baru kahwin dan dapat bilik yg sangat sempit untuk malam pertama.huih..seksa..macam tu jugak ar dengan ikan laga neh..bagi nak bagi tongkat ali atau super power atau orang kampung kt ikan nie letak arr daun ketapang...air die akan jadi berasid dan sesuai untuk pembiakan..die lagi gersang..dan cepat membiak.untuk meransang pembentukan buih oleh jantan,sebaiknya letak arr polistrene atau kiambang untuk mengekalkan buih tuh sebab ikan akan suka buat buih di bawahnya..

sebaiknya korang letak dulu bekas yang ada induk jantan dan induk betina ni sebelah2 di dalam bekas yang berasingan dulu,ye la kan bagi kenal2 dulu,main sms dulu ker..jagi xder arr dieorang wat secara ganas nanti.lagi satu dalam tangki pembiakan letak arr daun atau batu kecik utk jadi pelindung kepada betina,mana la kita tau kan die dapat laki ganas ker..jadi kene arr bagi perlindungan..

selepas jantan buat buih baru arr dimasukkan induk betina..induk jantan dan betina nie sebaiknya dicampurkan atau dikahwinkan di awal pagi..menjelang tengahari ikan nie akan melakukan ritual peneluran..ikan jantan akan menari dengan mengibaskan ekornya,membelit betina dan mengutip telur dan memasukkannya ke dalam buih..benda nie akan berlaku dari setengah jam hinga sejam gitu arr..selepas tu keesokan harinya ceraikanla dieorang..alih yg betina tinggalkan yang jantan sahaja..sebab jantan akan jaga telur dan ditakuti yg betina akan makan telur atau anak..

telur tu akan menetas dalam masa 24jam hingga 36jam bergantung pada suhu semasa..sebaiknya letak di atas kayu atau rak..jangan letak atas simen..sejuk..mati ikan nanti.selepas sehari anak ikan menetas.alih arr jantan plak ke dalam bekas lain.sebab ikan jntan nie da lama tak makan,jadi ia lapar dan ditakuti ia akan makan anak die sendiri(bukan ditakuti,memang ye pun).

Penjagaan anak

anak2 ikan laga perlu diberi makan selepas 3 hari mereka menetas,korang tenok arr perut atau yolk dieorang da kempis baru bagi makan..seeloknya rotifer disamping air hijau sebagai supplemen..kebaikan air hijau ni die akan melindungi badan anak ikan dari penembusan cahaya matahari yang boleh merosakkan mata dan organ anak ikan tersebut.air hijau nie sebenarnya mengandungi phytoplankton bernama chorella secara majoritinya,tapi ada gak banyak species lain yg ada.ia boleh didapati dari air ternakan ikan tilapia,ikan keli.korang perhatikan air dalam kolam ternakan dua spesis ni hijau,tu arr air hijau yang dimaksudkan..ok?

selepas seminggu cuba ar dapatkan moina atau artemia untuk peringkat pemakanan seterusnya..ikan laga nie akan makan apa sahaja yang muat dengan mulutnye..satu lagi tips ikan laga nie akan lagi cantik dan cepat membesar jika diberi makanan hidup mcm jentik2 ataupun frozen blood worm...cube arr yerkk!!

Ikan sepat Biru ku bertelur di atas mesin basuh...

hihihi...3 hari lepas aku letak arr 3 ekor ikan sepat biru kt dalam akuarium tebiar kt luar umah tuh(kesan tinggalan NRIC) atas mesin basuh yg juga kt luar umah...hihih..taruk keladi pe erkk.emm..jap nak ingat..ermmm adik beradik kepada keladi bunting tuh arr...ha,kiambang.kiambang ni akan bertindak sebagai medium kepada pembiakan ikan sepa nih..kalau korang nak tahu ikan sepat bertelur di permukaan iaitu 'bubble nester'..jadi dengan adanya daun keladi ni die akan berasa lebih selamat untuk buat buih...buih ni akan jadi medium tempat dia letak telur arr..maaflah gambar dieorang tengah ehem...ehem aku tak dapat amik..tau-tau dah ader anak...jadi kalo korang nak tahu jantan betina ikan neh tengok pada sirip dorsal dier..iaitu sirip kat atas belakang dia,kalau jantan sirip dia runcing,kalau betina dia tidak tajam..bentuk bujur jer..ermm..aku tengak ciri ni hampir boleh diguna pakai untuk semua jenis ikan sepat..tapi sesetengah jer ekk..tak semua..kalo nak pilih jantan elok saiz dia dalam 4 inci,sama jugak dengan betina,tapi betina korang kene pilih yang perut buncit...of course la kan..hihih..pastikan sisik ikan yang korang pilih nie bersinar dan sirip dieorang tegang..xmonyok...pendek kata aktif arr..lagi satu tips taruk daun ketapang untuk wat air tuh jadi berasid(sesuai untuk pembiakan).kalau ikan gourami ni korang tak perlu pengudaraan..slow jer cukup..untuk pembiakan pun sama..tak pakai pun takpe..untuk pemakanan plak,kalau untuk jadi pembiak yang berjaya,korang bagi arr ikan korang makan makanan hidup contohnya jentik2,moina,daphnia...cacing darah(bloodworm) beku pun boleh...nie kalau untuk yang nak jaga elok2 arr.kalau aku taruk kiambang jerr,pastu biar jer ikan tuh hidup sendiri..anak2 yang terhasil tuh seeloknya diberi makan rotifer, atau air hijau...tapi berdasarkan pengalaman kawan2 aku (hema,darul) kadar survival ikan sepat biru nie rendah..banyak yang mati mase kecik..tapi xpe ikan nie cepat bertelur lagi selepas tu...oklah aku rasa cukup dah info kali nie...jumpa lagi di lain hari..nanti aku ajar camner nak biak ikan laga plak...saper nak tau angkat tangan..cepat!!fuyoo..ramainyer nak tau...heheh..maner aku nampak tangan korang ye x ye...